Varanasi can be overwhelming on a first visit. For more detail, see our Varanasi weather by month.The combination of relentless noise, narrow lanes, aggressive touts, and the raw proximity to life and death rituals along the Ganges hits many travellers harder than they expect. But with the right practical knowledge, you can navigate the chaos and find the profound, moving city that has drawn pilgrims for 3,000 years. Here are the answers to the questions every first-time visitor to Varanasi asks, drawn from the experiences of travellers who have already made the mistakes so you do not have to.
Varanasi Travel Tips: Arrival and Getting Around
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located at Babatpur, about 26 km northwest of the city centre. It handles domestic flights from Delhi (1.5 hours), Mumbai (2.5 hours), Kolkata (1.5 hours), Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Khajuraho, plus limited international flights. A prepaid taxi from the airport to the ghats costs INR 800 to INR 1,200 and takes 45 to 60 minutes depending on traffic. Ola and Uber operate at the airport; expect to pay INR 600 to INR 900. There is no metro or direct bus service to the ghats from the airport, and see our best time to visit Varanasi for more detail..
Varanasi Junction (BSB), also called Varanasi Cantt, is the main railway station, 4 km from the ghats. It connects to Delhi (8 to 12 hours by express train), Kolkata (12 to 14 hours), Mumbai (24 to 28 hours), and most major Indian cities. From the station, a prepaid auto-rickshaw to the ghats costs INR 150 to INR 250. Uber and Ola also operate from the station. Ignore the touts at the station exit who will tell you your hotel has burned down or closed; this is a common scam to steer you to a commission-paying guesthouse, and see our things to do in Varanasi for more detail..
Within Varanasi, auto-rickshaws are the primary form of transport. Fares within the city range from INR 50 for a short hop to INR 250 for crossing town. Always negotiate the fare before getting in; meters are rarely used. Cycle rickshaws are available for shorter distances in the old city and cost INR 30 to INR 80. The old city lanes (galis) from Godowlia to Assi Ghat are too narrow for cars or auto-rickshaws, so expect to walk the last 100 to 500 metres to your hotel if staying near the ghats. Wear comfortable walking shoes and carry a phone with offline maps (Google Maps works reasonably well in the lanes, but the GPS signal can be inconsistent), and see our Varanasi events and festivals for more detail..
Varanasi Travel Tips: Safety and Scams
Varanasi is generally safe for travellers, but it has a well-earned reputation for touts and scams targeting tourists. The most common scam is the burning ghat donation: a man at Manikarnika Ghat will approach you with a sad story about needing money for cremation wood for a poor family. It is a scam. Politely say no and walk away. Another frequent scam: someone offers to be your guide, then leads you to a silk shop where you face high-pressure sales tactics with prices inflated by 300 to 500 percent. If you want a guide, hire one through your hotel or a licensed tour operator (expect to pay INR 1,000 to INR 2,000 for a half-day walking tour), and see our Varanasi neighborhoods guide for more detail..
Pickpocketing can occur in the dense crowds at the ghats during the Ganga Aarti and festivals. Keep your phone and wallet in a zipped front pocket or a cross-body bag worn in front. Solo female travellers should be prepared for staring, which is more intense in Varanasi than in Delhi or Mumbai. Dress conservatively (cover shoulders and knees), and consider joining a group walking tour for your first day to build confidence with the terrain. The lanes are safe to walk at night until about 10:00 PM, but after that they become very dark and isolated. Use a flashlight or your phone torch after dark; street lighting in the old city is minimal, and see our where to stay in Varanasi for more detail..
Varanasi Travel Tips: Food, Water, and Health
Do not drink the tap water anywhere in Varanasi. Stick to bottled water (check that the seal is intact; refilled bottles are common) or use a purification bottle or tablets. Avoid ice in drinks unless you are at a reputable restaurant. Street food in Varanasi is excellent and generally safe if you follow two rules: eat where there is a queue of locals, and stick to food that is cooked hot in front of you. The kachori-sabzi at Ram Bhandar (near Godowlia), the malaiyyo (a frothy milk dessert only available in winter), and the tamatar chaat at Kashi Chaat Bhandar are three iconic Varanasi foods. For a proper meal, Keshari Restaurant near Godowlia serves reliable North Indian thalis for INR 200 to INR 350.
Delhi belly (traveller’s diarrhoea) affects roughly 30 to 50 percent of first-time visitors to India. Pack loperamide (Imodium), oral rehydration salts, and a course of azithromycin or ciprofloxacin if you can get a prescription before travel. There are several private hospitals in Varanasi, including Heritage Hospitals (near BHU) and Galaxy Hospital (in the Cantonment area), which offer decent care for non-emergencies. For serious medical issues, evacuation to Delhi may be necessary.
Varanasi Travel Tips: Temple Etiquette and Cultural Norms
Remove your shoes before entering any temple, and at many guesthouses and shops. Dress modestly at religious sites: shoulders and knees covered, and avoid tight or revealing clothing. Non-Hindus are not permitted inside the inner sanctum of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple but can access the corridor and viewing areas. Photography is forbidden inside most temples and at Manikarnika Ghat (the burning ghat). At the ghats, it is acceptable to photograph sadhus (holy men), but they will often ask for money afterwards (INR 50 to INR 100). Negotiate this before you take the photo. Do not photograph people bathing or performing rituals without permission. Do not point your feet toward a temple shrine or a person; it is considered highly disrespectful.
Varanasi Travel Tips: Money and Connectivity
ATMs are available throughout Varanasi, particularly in the Cantonment, Godowlia, and Lanka areas. State Bank of India and HDFC Bank ATMs are the most reliable. Withdrawal limits are typically INR 10,000 per transaction. Carry cash in small denominations (INR 10, INR 50, INR 100 notes), as change is scarce and many small vendors, chai wallahs, and cycle-rickshaw drivers cannot break INR 500 or INR 2,000 notes. Digital payments via UPI (Google Pay, PhonePe) are widely accepted in shops and restaurants but not by street vendors or rickshaw drivers.
Mobile data: an Indian SIM card costs about INR 300 to INR 500 for a month of service with 1.5 GB of daily data. Airtel and Jio are the two major carriers, and both have good coverage in Varanasi. You will need to provide a copy of your passport and visa, and a passport photo, to get a SIM card. The activation can take 2 to 24 hours. Alternatively, international roaming and eSIM services like Airalo work in India, though at higher cost. Wi-Fi in budget guesthouses is often slow and unreliable; mid-range and luxury hotels have decent connectivity.
Suggested Hotels in Varanasi
BrijRama Palace, A Heritage Hotel
An 18th-century heritage palace built on its own private ghat, with direct views of the Ganges and the evening aarti from its rooftop terrace. Best for couples and travellers wanting the most atmospheric luxury stay in the city. Check rates and availability
Hotel Surya Kaiser Palace
A restored heritage palace with a swimming pool and courtyard garden, offering 4-star comfort near the Cantonment. Best for travellers who want heritage character with reliable modern amenities. Check rates and availability
Gully Ghar
A well-reviewed 3-star guesthouse in the Assi area with air-conditioned rooms, private bathrooms, balconies, and free WiFi. Best for budget travellers wanting a clean, modern room near Assi Ghat. Check rates and availability
